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Highlights first synced by [[readwise]] [[September 2nd, 2020]]

• Your Doggy Education (before searching) Evaluating Puppy’s Progress (before selection) Errorless Housetraining and Chewtoy-Training (the day your puppy comes home) Socialization with People (by twelve weeks of age) Learning Bite Inhibition (by eighteen weeks of age) The World at Large (by five months of age and thereafter) (Location 253)
• incidence of breed-specific diseases, look elsewhere. You (Location 467)
• For years it was dogmatically stated that puppies who approached quickly, jumped up, and bit your hands were totally unsuitable as pets, since they were aggressive and difficult to train. On the contrary, these are normal, well-socialized eight-week-old puppies who are simply saying hello in true puppy fashion without the benefit of manners. (Location 566)
• the more dogs bite as puppies, the softer and safer their jaws in adulthood. (Location 570)
• The more you confine your puppy to his Doggy Den and Puppy Playroom during his first few weeks at home, the more freedom he will enjoy as an adult dog for the rest of his life. (Location 620)
• This is his long-term confinement area. It should include: A comfortable bed A bowl of fresh water Plenty of hollow chewtoys (stuffed with dog food) A doggy toilet in the farthest corner from his bed (Location 624)
• Enjoy short play and training sessions hourly. (Location 635)
• for periods of no longer than an hour at a time, confine your puppy to his doggy den, (Location 637)
• Every hour, release your puppy and quickly take him to his doggy toilet. (Location 638)
• Either you may move the crate so that your puppy is in the same room as you, or you may want to confine your pup to a different room to start preparing him for times when he will be left at home alone. (Location 640)
• If you do not like the idea of confining your puppy to a dog crate, you may tie the leash to your belt and have the pup settle down at your feet. (Location 641)
• Get in the habit of taking an older puppy to her doggy toilet (in your yard or curbside in front of your apartment building), standing still, and waiting for the pup to eliminate. Praise the pup and offer liver treats when she does: “Good girl, let’s go walkies!” Clean up and dispose of the feces in your own trash can, and then go and enjoy a poopless walk with your dog. After just a few days with a simple “no poop means no walk” rule, you’ll find you have the quickest urinator and defecator in town. (Location 753)
• it is important to minimize the use of treats in training. (Location 842)
• KONG STUFFING 101 The basic principle of Kong stuffing ensures that some food comes out quickly and easily to instantly reward your puppy for initially contacting her chewtoy; bits of food come out over a long period of time to periodically reward your puppy for continuing to chew; and some of the best bits never come out, so your puppy never loses interest. Squish a small piece of freeze-dried liver in the small hole in the tip of the Kong so your puppy will never be able to get it out. Smear a little honey around the inside of the Kong, fill it up with kibble, and then block the big hole with crossed dog biscuits. There are numerous creative variations on basic Kong stuffing. One of my favorite recipes comprises moistening your puppy’s kibble, spooning it into the Kong, and then putting it in the freezer overnight — a Kongsicle! Your dog will love it. (Location 844)
• Beware of the trap of smothering your new puppy with nonstop attention and affection during her first days at home, for then she will whine, bark, and fret when left alone at night or during the daytime when you are at work and the children are at school. (Location 863)
• For example, when you’re watching television have your pup lie down on-leash or in his crate, but release him for short play-training breaks during the commercials. (Location 885)
• When playing with your pup, have him settle down for frequent short interludes every fifteen seconds. (Location 887)
• After fifteen seconds, interrupt the play session once more with a three-second settle-down. (Location 888)
• Your puppy will learn that being asked to settle down is not the end of the world, nor is it necessarily the end of the play session, but instead that Settle Down signals a short time-out and reward break before he is allowed to resume playing. (Location 890)
• Allowing a young puppy unrestricted access to you when you are at home quickly encourages her to become overly dependent, and overdependence is the most common reason why dogs become anxious when left at home alone. (Location 904)
• Do not acknowledge your puppy’s presence with praise or petting until she retrieves a chewtoy. (Location 919)
• Once she brings you a chewtoy, use a pen or pencil to push out the piece of freeze-dried liver your puppy has been unable to extract. This will impress your puppy to no end. (Location 920)
• During your puppy’s first few weeks at home, frequent confinement with stuffed chewtoys is essential for your pup to develop confidence and independence. (Location 931)
• Once your puppy is quite happy busying himself with his chewtoys whenever left alone, you may safely allow your now well-behaved and confident pup to enjoy as much time with you as he likes, without the fear that he will become anxious in your absence. (Location 932)
• Owner-absent misbehavior is an indication that the owner has tried to suppress normal and natural dog behaviors with punishment, rather than teaching the dog how to behave — namely, how to express her basic doggy desires in an acceptable fashion. (Location 940)
• You choose where your pup sleeps at night. If you want your pup in his long-term confinement area overnight, or in a dog crate in the kitchen or your bedroom, that’s fine. Or if you want the pup tethered in his bed beside your bed, that’s fine too. What is important, though, is that the puppy is confined to a small area and settles down quickly and quietly. Offer the puppy an intelligently stuffed chewtoy and he will likely chew himself to sleep in no time at all. (Location 944)
• It is a good idea to practice the nighttime routine during the daytime when you are awake and in a good humor. (Location 951)
• During the daytime, practice having your puppy settle down in his bed or crate both in the same room as you and in different rooms so that he gets used to sleeping alone. (Location 952)
• Should your pup whine at nighttime, check on him every ten minutes. Talk softly to him and stroke him gently for a minute and then go back to bed. But do not overdo it. The idea is to reassure your puppy, not to train him to whine for late-night attention. (Location 954)
• Also, do not go straight to sleep, for you’ll probably be checking on your puppy after ten minutes. Once the puppy eventually falls asleep, I find it enjoyable to check in on him and stroke him for four or five minutes. A lot of people dare not do this for fear they will wake the little critter, but it has always worked well for me. (It worked well with my son too.) (Location 955)
• If you follow the above routine, you’ll find it will take fewer than seven nights before your puppy learns to go to sleep quickly and quietly. (Location 958)
• Strangely enough, the fewer treats you give and the longer you keep each treat in your hand, the better your pup will learn. (Location 979)
• If you want your puppy to respect you, lure/reward train him to come, sit, lie down, and roll over. If you want your puppy to show deference, teach him to lick your hand or shake hands. Licking and pawing are both active appeasement gestures — signs of wanting to be friends. If you would like your puppy to show doggy deference, tickle his goolies when he is lying on his side and watch him raise his hind leg to expose his inguinal area. (Location 1369)
• Your puppy should learn that giving up bones, toys, and tissues means receiving something better in return — praise and treats — and also later getting back the original object. (Location 1457)
• Don’t waste time reprimanding the pup for growling. Instead, make sure to praise and reward your puppy as soon as she stops growling. Additionally, you must make sure that a growling puppy immediately loses her bone or food bowl. (Location 1482)